Tuesday, May 13, 2014

May 1: “International Workers’ Day” “Erster Mai” “Tag der Arbeit”


Timone told Sam and Lauren about the Erter Mai celebration in Heidelberg that sounded fun, but had a risk. It starts Wednesday night up on a hill in Heidelberg where people have fires and generally hang out and bbq the whole night. It takes place at Heiligenberganlage, which is an old Nazi theater. It was built during the time of National Socialism by an architect from the Reich Labor Service and Heidelberg students.

Back to the risk; It starts at night, is a long walk from the train station on top of a hill, and the last train leaves at 11:30pm. The next train leaves at 5:30 am. If you miss the 11:30 train, you’re looking at a very uncomfortable night.

We left at 7:30 and arrived at around 8:30. It took us one and a half hours to get to the site. By that time, we would have had to turn right around and head to the train station. We didn’t want to do that so we figured we’d hang out for a bit and take the 1:30 train. (That mythical 1:30 train was somehow Lauren’s idea. She was wrong.) The walk was really awesome. Once across the Neckar river, we were no longer in Hessen, and we began our hike up the mountain. The sun was long gone, and we had an awesome view of Heidelberg Castle. It was lit up and looked massive. I’ll have to go back and check it out during the day. We were navigating by way of Lauren’s (sometimes false) confidence that she knew the way, and a cell phone photo of the map at the train station. While we paused on the bridge taking in the beauty of a rainy night lit by a large city, I asked a guy on a bike if he knew the way to Philosopher’s Trail. In German: Philosophenweg.”



Images found online. That circle in the middle where the big fire was. People were set up all up and down these steps. Safety personel were there too in case of emergency. While we were at the beer garden, an ambulance drove off twice. I hope it wasn't anything too serious.

We followed his directions, and then decided to simply follow the groups of people heading in that direction. They had backpacks with what I assume is food and/or beer. I wish we had brought more food. We joined the herd and hiked up the mountain on a paved road that faded to an access road. In the dark, there was still no need for flashlights because the cloud cover reflected the city lights and provided just enough light to navigate the trail under the tree cover. Mostly, it was follow the people in front of you. We heard English a few times on the way up which is now not surprising. I guess the three of us aren’t the only Americans in Germany. Especially in a big city like Heidelberg, and on a night of celebration with hundreds of young adults.

We arrived to an amazing sight. The theater was full of people. There was a big bonfire front and center. A drum circle was providing the soundtrack for the night. People all the way up the steps had set up BBQs and looked like they were ready to spend a long time there. A couple groups had tents (smart idea.) Candles and small torches lit up the theater with a yellow glow. Nobody had lanterns or bright flashlights. The theme here is fire, and food. We found a spot to rest and take in the sights. Sam and Lauren popped open a bottle of wine and passed me a honey waffle. I took a few sips of their cheap red wine and relaxed. Yep, I drank MORE than one tiny sip of wine.
I found this image online. Mine didn't look this cool, and there weren't this many people because it was raining. You get the idea though.

It began to rain as we sat there talking about how awesome this was. We need things like this in the States. Maybe there are, but I don’t know about them. I put on my rain jacket, and passed my umbrella to Lauren who had forgotten a rain jacket. It had been raining on and off for the past few days, so I was expecting this. We took a lap around the whole area to see what people were up to. Mostly people had set up small portable BBQs and were cooking small bits of meat. (I really wish I had stopped and bought a döner in town. Döner is a Turkish flatbread filled with meat and veges that originates in Berlin) We made our way all the way to the top, said “wow,” and headed back down to the main fire. It was super hot near the fire and the rain was no longer noticeable. The drum circle was thumping, some people were dancing, and I could only think that Kirky would love this.


With no food, no drinks besides wine, and only one umbrella, we decided to turn back and retire to the Biergarten for a while. I bought Kartoffelsoupe und Brotchen for 4 € and was very thankful for the warmth. The crowd at the covered Biergarten was growing due to the increasing rainfall. We were now squished between people so I tried to make friends.



An older gentleman was to my left and he had his two kids with him across the table. I asked him if he had walked up the mountain, and he replied that he did. A few short sentences later I was completely lost and couldn’t continue in German. I hate not being able to hold a conversation, but I also hate studying. Such a pickle! Sam jumped in a continued on with me awkwardly in the middle. With the noise level they had to lean toward each other to talk. I don’t know why I didn’t move. I should have.



By the time we left and arrived back at the train station it was 1:30 and the late train Lauren said might be available was definitely not. We were f*ed. It was either wait 3 hours and pay 30 Euros for a ticket on the ICE, or wait 4 hours and take the free train home. After a few bouts of frustration, slight anger, and regret, we accepted the fact that we were going to have to spend the next 4 hours at the train station. I tried to sleep on a bench with no success. It was cold and uncomfortable. Duh, it’s a train station not a Motel 6. Later we moved to another wing where it was closer and I pulled out my Frisbee to kill time. Sam and I tossed it back and forth for a while. Sam hit the wall, the ceiling, the ground, and the lockers. If it was near us, he nailed it with the Frisbee. He hit a homeless guy with an erratic throw that I didn’t catch. He was walking by and had some unlucky timing.


I didn’t get home the next day until around 8:30. I ended up sleeping through the holiday where you’re supposed to go outside and have fun instead of working. Oh well. I made a decision to go, and suffered the consequence. I’m still glad I went and saw that. I don’t think I missed anything by going.

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